Confessions of a Side Plate Junkie
by Fred Stutzenberger
Compulsive-obsessive behavior is defined as an irresistible
impulse to perform an irrational act. There are compulsive
eaters, compulsive shoppers, and compulsive bathers. Government
programs have been established in some cases to help victims cope
with their obsessions. There is no government program to help me.
Last night, when the house was quiet, I crept downstairs to the
rifle shop and counted 43 side plates in my parts bins. I am a
side plate junkie.
Fortunately, help is on the horizon. Bill Cox, President of
L & R Lock Company, Inc., has recently developed a line of side
plates which are compatible in style and dimensions with his fine
locks. The availability of side plates designed to complement
specific locks eliminates the frustration of wanting to use a
given side plate on a particular style rifle, only to find that
its dimensions make it incompatible with the lock. Parts
suppliers have addressed this problem to some extent by casting
side plates with elongated forward extensions which can be cut
and shaped to accommodate locks of various dimensions. Track of
the Wolf has gone one step farther and has pictured side plates
and many other parts at exact actual size in their excellent
catalog so that one can measure bolt-to-bolt distances and other
necessary dimensions. Now, with the debut of the L & R line of
side plates, side plate junkies such as me may be able to give up
gradually the security blanket of keeping bushels of side plates
to cover any contingency of style and dimensions.
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The L & R side plate selection includes: a) #2100SP, b) #1900SP, c) #2000SP, d) #1700SP, e) #1200SP, and f) #1100SP, plus a selection of single bolt escutcheons g) from the left to right, PE, WE, OE, and HE.
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The range of L & R side plates (Fig. 1) covers a lot of
stylistic territory. Each side plate is designed with dimensions
and styling for a specific L & R lock. The 1100SP is to be used
with the Durs Egg lock and is similar to the one on the Oerter
rifle from Christian Springs (which was renovated by Durs Egg
about 1800). The 1200SP, which is similar to that favored by
Andrew Figthron and William Blaine, is for use with the Dickert
lock. The 1700SP, designed to mate with the Manton lock, has
similar characteristics to side plates of Isaac Haines and George
Shroyer. The 1900SP is similar to side plates used by Isaac
Berlin and Jacob Dickert and fits the Bedford lock. The 2000SP,
appropriate for Jaegers and some early fowlers, is compatible
with the Queen Anne lock. The 2100SP appears closely related to
side plates seen on some Perry County and Bucks County rifles.
All come in brass or steel; the 1100 and 1700 side plates are
also available in left hand versions (catalog #1150SP LH and
1800SP LH respectively). It's easy to match the side plates with
their respective locks by their catalog numbers. For example, the
#1900SP side plate is designed for the L & R models #1900 (flint)
and 1900P (percussion) Bedford-style locks. Of the available side
plates, the #2000SP for the Queen Anne lock is my favorite.
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The countersunk recess for the head of the lock bolt will conceal small mistakes in lining up a true 90 degrees between plate and hole.
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Its 0.055"-deep countersink lets the 3/8" lock bolt nestle in its
recess (Fig. 2) so that minor alignment faux pas are easily
forgiven. The bolt-hole spacing of each side plate is based on
the distance between the lower rear quadrant of the lock bolster
and the midpoint of the lock plate nose. Locating the rear
lock-bolt hole as shown in Fig. 3 is optimal for several reasons:
- it minimizes interference from the breech plug bolster (often
a crescent is cut from the bolster to allow sufficient clearance
for the rear bolt);
- it allows the bolt to pull more evenly on the lock and reduces the
locks tendency to cant horizontally or vertically in its inlet if the
underlying wood in the mortise is not perfect (and whose is?); 3) it allows
latitude, without interference from the side plate, to create a deep and
graceful scallop from the tang level to the barrel channel level (an awkward
area where too much wood is often left by the beginning rifle stocker).
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The hole for the rear lock bolt should be drilled and tapped to the rear of the bolster and down from the top edge of the plate.
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In addition to the traditional two-holes, L & R provides a nice range of simple and authentic escutcheons (shown at the
bottom of Fig. 1). Many percussion rifles (such as those made by
John and Elisha Bull in Tennessee) and the halfstock plains rifle
types (such as the Hawkens out of St. Louis) used a single lock
bolt passing through what amounted, in some cases, to a glorified
washer. Like their big brothers, the L & R escutcheons are
countersunk for 3/8" bolt heads and are nicely cast with ample
draft for ease of inletting.
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If necessary, high placement of the forward lock bolt can avoid interference with the passage of the ramrod under it.
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While Bill Cox has specifically designed his line of side
plates to complement L & R locks, it should be noted that they
are compatible with a number of other locks as well. For example,
the dimensions of the 1100, 2000, and 2100 should work well with
the large Chambers/Siler Germanic lock. The 1200 and the 1700
would fit the small Chambers/Siler Germanic and the Faux/Ketland
late English lock respectively. The 2000 would work with the
early Chambers Jaeger lock.
All of the L & R side plates appear easy to inlet because of
their generous thickness (which makes them rigid and durable) and
ample draft which makes possible a tight press fit. The apparent
ease with which a side plate can be inletted may be deceptive
however, since its placement is critical to both the function and
beauty of the rifle. Its placement is complicated by the fact
that the lock panels of most rifle styles are not parallel, but
taper inward toward the front; the difference between the
side-to-side spans of fore and aft may be 1/8" or more with a
tapered or swamped barrel. Therefore, this is not a matter of
merely matching two parallel opposing surfaces. Alignment of
holes for the cross bolts is crucial to the correct mating of
parts. In the best of all possible worlds, a precisely drilled
ramrod hole, adequate forethought, and compatible parts will
allow all the pieces to fit together without interference.
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Turning the diameter of the forward lock bolt smaller not only decreases the possibility of interference with the ramrod, but also makes it easy to know which goes where when reassembling the rifle after lock removal.
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But in reality, if a lock bolt seems inclined to intrude into the ramrod
hole, two remedies are possible: 1) Locate the forward screw hole
slightly above the midpoint of the lock plate nose; or 2) Use a
forward bolt turned smaller, as shown in Fig. 5. This will
decrease ramrod hole obstruction. (Editor's note: We amateur
builders are susceptible to such problems, but with good planning
and by drilling our cross bolt holes from the lock plate side, we
increase our chances of locating everything correctly.)
Sometimes, due to the whimsical wandering of the ramrod hole, the
side plate has to be tipped up a bit at the front end if you are
to avoid an intersection of the forward lock bolt and the ramrod.
This makes the side plate look a bit out of kilter with the lines
of the stock panel; I have improved the aesthetics of this
correction a bit by adding a snippet of wire inlay for balance as
in Fig. 6.
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When the forward tip of this side plate had to be tipped up a bit to avoid interference of the lock bolt with the ramrod, I used a little wire inlay to restore the balance of the plate.
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L and R's nice assortment of side plates will be a welcome
addition to its product line. Their grace and compatibility with
the off-side lock panel (a consideration which seemed to escape a
lot of the old time gunsmiths) will win them ready acceptance
with contemporary builders. I wonder if my 43 other side plates
would move at a Saturday morning yard sale...
Footnotes:
1. Buchele, W., Shumway, G. & Alexander, P.A. Recreating the
American Longrifle. G. Shumway, Publisher, York, PA, 1984, p.
106.
2. Alexander, P.A. The Gunsmith of Grenville County,
Muzzleloader July/August, 1992, p. 21.